Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey & Caroline-Morey
Two irreproachable sources of really fine, precise, ageworthy white burgundy are the world-famous Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury of Meursault and the up-and-coming négociant Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey of Chassagne-Montrachet. A clear sense of evolution is in the air at both... The list of those seeking allocations of Coche white burgundies is already wildly over-subscribed but it may not be too late to secure some Colin-Morey wines. Pierre-Yves, son of Marc Colin, has very much gone his own way, adding carefully to his own vineyards with a small roster of hand-picked growers from whom he buys. His wines are as intense as he is, and he, another Côte de Beaune producer to have moved his wine showroom out of his kitchen to separate premises, seems utterly dedicated to making the wines better every year. JANCIS ROBINSON MW
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. ANTONIO GALLONI
The first time that I tasted a wine from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey was back in 2015 and I remember it clear as day. It was only a Bourgogne Blanc however the intensity of the wine was unlike any other Bourgogne Blanc that I had tasted before - If I have not tasted a certain producer before I always use a producers Bourgogne wine to help ascertain the quality of their other wines and in this case, the rest of the range was no joke.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey or most otherwise known as PYCM established himself as one of the young rising stars of Burgundy. He left his family Domaine Marc Colin in 2005 to venture out on his own where he built a solid reputation for his ethereal white wines. He works with a share of his family vineyards and also as a negociant, purchasing must from growers and aging the wines in barrels that he has supplied himself. If the wines meet his standard he will then purchase the barrel and transport the wine to mature in his own underground cellar below his house in Chassagne-Montrachet.
PYCM's white wines I believe can stand up to the other great Domaines such as Olivier Leflaive, Coche Dury and Ramonet. The wines are long lived, terroir expressive and what keeps bringing me back to them, tightly coiled with tension and length. In the cellar all the whites are treated the same bar the elevage time in barrel. They are whole bunch pressed, fermented with natural yeasts, aged on lees for up to 18 months for the Bourgogne and St.Aubin and more than 18 months for the top tier wines. He uses no lees stirring during maturation and no filtration before bottling. - Jeff
Pierre-Yves on the 2020 Vintage:
“The year started with some risks of frost but turned out to be minimal for our parcels – we lit some candles, in the end probably for nothing – the neighbours who didn’t seem to have similar yields.Very little in the way of problems; starting our harvest the 20 August. We worried about the lack of rain, but again the chardonnay reacted very well – good quality and quantity – the balance seems simply magnificent. The combination of maturity and acidity has so few other vintage comparisons – I’ve never seen it before. I’ve been working since 1995, starting with my father, and you usually get one or the other. So the debut of the harvest was very early – 20 August – looking for the acidity and sugar balance. We were very happy with the quality of the grapes that arrived at the domaine. Easy fermentations – both. A vintage that has frank and precise wines – I find them very sincere and the terroirs are marked…”
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, January 2022 on PYCM 2020:
“The 2020 vintage is another very promising year for Pierre-Yves Colin, who finds the wines a bit more charming and demonstrative than the more serious, structured 2019s—the latter a vintage we revisited in bottle and which appears to possess considerable aging potential. As readers may know, Colin's bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren't crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follows.
As I wrote last year, since moving to his new, much colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, he finds his wines retain significantly more free sulfur dioxide for any given addition, and he now feels he added more than was necessary—given these altered conditions—to his 2015s, 2016s and 2017s. So, some subtle adjustments have now been made in this regard, and readers can expect the wines to be a little less buttoned up out of the gates than has been the case in those three vintages. Now Pierre-Yves has so much space, he's also thinking about further extending the élevage of his lower appellations: in the next two or three years, he's contemplating fermenting and maturing them in 350-liter barrels for a year, before racking them to tronconic wooden vats for further time on the lees.”
We have received a small parcel of PYCM's wines and also a parcel of Caroline-Morey wines (wife and winemaking partner of PYCM) that we are excited to share with you. Due to the limited nature of these wines they will available on a first come first serve basis.
To enquire about this allocation please contact firstname.lastname@example.org
2020 Meursault - $300
From vines planted 1970’s located quite high on the slope on the Puligny side of Meursault. In 2019 this comes from 3 lieu-dits; Narvaux, Grands Charrons and Les Vireuils. “A subtle width of faintly spiced aroma – attractive and elegant. Bubbling with easy complexity yet the definition is really fine here – this needs a bit more time to show its open complexity but here is a beautifully made, rather elegant wine -I expect, as a minimum, excellent wine here – the finish like most here takes a little jump higher in quality…” burgundy-report.com December 2021
”The 2020 Meursault Village is a blend of prime lieux-dits Narvaux, Vireuils, Grands Charrons and Luchets. Mingling aromas of crisp green orchard fruit and white flowers with notions of hazelnuts, freshly baked bread and pastry cream, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and satiny, with terrific depth at the core, tangy acids and chalky structuring dry extract. This is well worth seeking out.” (90-92)+ William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, January 2022
2020 Chassagne Montrachet ‘vieilles vignes’ - $280
From 4 very old vineyards all located on the northern side of Chassagne close to the Puligny border - deeper soils here too. “Open, melting, rounder and richer and completely delicious. Not the definition and structure of some but moreish and already very approachable. The finish is really excellent.” burgundy-report.com December 2021
”The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes has turned out especially well. Mingling aromas of pear and orange oil with hints of baking spices, beeswax and wheat toast, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with a satiny attack and a long, chalky finish.” (89-91) William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, January 2022
2020 Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru ‘Morgeot’ - $440
The Morgeot terroir owes its name to a hamlet which abuts Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. Half of the vines in "Les Fairendes" were planted in 1964 and the remainder in 1974. This parcel has deeper soil where rocks break the surface. Up-slope, the stony red soil is shallow but gets deeper lower down the slope where the soil is white, heavy, compacted and clayey.
”2 parcels; Fairendes and Abbaye de Morgeot. The first wine for while that’s sufficiently open to show some extra floral complexity – nice. Mouth-filling but with freshness and pretty good definition too. Really an extra depth of flavour but I think a tiny reduction is adding to that. Impressive, fuller, complex wine. Very delicious too!” burgundy-report.com December 2021
2020 Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru ‘La Maltroie’ - $375
2020 Caroline-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées - $420
From vines planted in the 1950’s located quite high on the slope at the northern end near Puligny. Lots of limestone in this vineyard and it shows with super fine aromatics and palate staining intensity of orchard fruits backed by a great line of acidity. Very long, very impressive. Near Philippe Colin’s vines, near the quarry. Older vines with millerandes.
’More open, certainly more clarity of minerality in this aromatic. Open, cool fruit again, mouth-wateringly attractive – all the focus and fluidity that you could wish for – this is a very elegant and great wine I think. Bravo.’ burgundy-report.com, November 2021
”Lemon with a light green tint. Chiselled, and classic, with extra weight here over Vergers, this is surprisingly powerful (in a good way) with precision and length. Clean and pure, no sucrosity.” (92-94) Jasper Morris, October 2021